Hey everyone,
If you’ve been running a 6.7L Powerstroke for any length of time, you know it’s arguably the best diesel engine Ford has ever engineered. It’s lightyears ahead of the 6.0L and 6.4L platforms. However, even this powerhouse has a "Achilles' heel"—the factory Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) systems.
While these systems are designed to keep the air clean, they do so by forcing your engine to "breathe its own waste." Over tens of thousands of miles, this leads to a cocktail of soot and oily sludge that chokes your intake, spikes your EGTs, and puts your secondary cooling system under immense stress.
In this guide, I’m diving deep into the technical flaws of the stock setup, how to choose between the different hardware options available, and what you need to know about the installation process to ensure your "Scorpion" lives a long, healthy life.
Q: Which kit should I pick?A: If you have a standard 10mm probe and want the easiest hose routing, go with the molded hose kit. If you need the 12mm port and want a stealthier look, the Black Anodized kit is your winner.
Q: Is it legal?A: Legal Reality: Removing emissions equipment like the EGR system is a violation of the Clean Air Act in the USA. These modifications are strictly for off-road, competition, or export use only. Check your local and state regulations before proceeding.
What's your next move? If you haven't checked your intake for soot lately, pop the intake elbow off. If it looks like a chimney, it's time to let that Scorpion breathe.
Would you like me to help you compare the tuning requirements for these different EGR delete configurations?
If you’ve been running a 6.7L Powerstroke for any length of time, you know it’s arguably the best diesel engine Ford has ever engineered. It’s lightyears ahead of the 6.0L and 6.4L platforms. However, even this powerhouse has a "Achilles' heel"—the factory Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Crankcase Ventilation (CCV) systems.
While these systems are designed to keep the air clean, they do so by forcing your engine to "breathe its own waste." Over tens of thousands of miles, this leads to a cocktail of soot and oily sludge that chokes your intake, spikes your EGTs, and puts your secondary cooling system under immense stress.
In this guide, I’m diving deep into the technical flaws of the stock setup, how to choose between the different hardware options available, and what you need to know about the installation process to ensure your "Scorpion" lives a long, healthy life.
Part 1: The Factory Deficiencies (The "Why")
Before we start wrenching, we have to look at what's actually failing under that hood:- The Soot/Oil Sludge Cycle: The EGR valve takes hot exhaust soot and pumps it into the intake manifold. Simultaneously, the CCV vents oily crankcase mist into the turbo inlet. When these two meet, they form a thick, tar-like deposit that clogs the intake butterfly valves and maps sensors.
- EGR Cooler Ruptures: The 6.7L uses a complex cooler that can fail internally. If it leaks, you’re either burning coolant or, in worst-case scenarios, hydrolocking your engine.
- Secondary Cooling Heat Soak: The EGR cooler acts as a massive heater for your secondary radiator. By removing it, you allow the secondary system to focus entirely on cooling the Charge Air Cooler (Intercooler), leading to denser, cooler intake air.
Part 2: Choosing the Right Hardware (The Hardware Deep-Dive)
I’ve spent a lot of time testing kits from TruckTok, and there are three specific EGR setups and one CCV kit you need to know about. The differences are subtle but critical.1. The "Black Anodized" 12mm Kit (For Newer Models & Custom Probes)
If you have a newer truck or an aftermarket pyrometer, you likely need the TruckTok 12mm Black Anodized EGR Delete Kit.- The Size Difference: This kit features a 12mm hole exhaust cover plate. You must check your sensor size before ordering; using the wrong plate will stall your install.
- Enhanced Durability: The black anodized aluminum components offer superior corrosion and rust resistance compared to raw finishes.
- Efficiency: It eliminates soot and carbon deposits in the intake ducts and results in quicker turbo spool with lower EGTs.
- Cooling: Includes a new coolant hose to complete the circuit rather than using simple plugs.
2. The "Maximum Flow" Kit (With Specialized Recirculation Hose)
For those who want a truly plug-and-play experience, I recommend this High-Flow EGR Delete Kit with Molded Hose.- The Hardware Difference: This kit includes a specialized, molded coolant recirculation hose (the one with the protective abrasion sleeve).
- Benefit: This hose allows for faster coolant recirculation, which directly leads to lower overall coolant temperatures because the circuit is finished more efficiently.
- Specs: It uses high-quality CNC-machined billet aluminum and stainless steel components for maximum durability.
- Probe Size: It features a 10mm hole in the exhaust cover plate, designed specifically for the standard Ford factory EGT probes.
3. The 10mm Kit
For a standard performance build, theEGR Delete Kit is a fan favorite.- Construction: Made from durable aluminum alloy and stainless steel.
- Probe Spec: Uses a 10mm hole exhaust cover plate for the standard EGT probe.
- Performance: Faster coolant recirculation leads to decreased coolant temperatures by bypassing the hot EGR cooler.
4. The Essential Companion: CCV Reroute Kit
You are wasting your time deleting the EGR if you don't install the TruckTok CCV/PCV Reroute Engine Ventilation Kit.- The Logic: It eliminates the restrictive factory crankcase box on top of the engine.
- The Venturi Design: Its streamline routing eliminates restrictive baffles, providing better pressure flow without oil dripping.
- Results: Decreases oil deposits in the engine and ensures optimal combustion efficiency by keeping residual air oil-free.
- Space: Frees up significant room in the engine bay for further modifications.
Part 3: Installation Strategy (The "Veteran" Tips)
Removing the EGR cooler on a 6.7L is a "Project." Here is how you survive it:- Check Your Probe Size! As mentioned, the difference between a 10mm and 12mm hole is the difference between a 4-hour job and a 3-day headache. Measure your sensor nut before you order.
- The Coolant Bleed: The 6.7L is notorious for airlocks. When you install the new recirculation hoses, you must vacuum-fill the system or follow the high-idle bleed procedure. If you leave air in the lines, your secondary water pump will cavitate.
- Hose Routing: When using the kit with the molded hose, make sure it is zip-tied away from the exhaust manifold block-off plate. Even with the abrasion sleeve, direct contact with that plate will eventually melt the hose.
- The Exhaust Manifold Bolts: Soak these in penetrating oil for 24 hours. They are heat-cycled thousands of times and can snap easily.
Part 4: Post-Install Impressions
After about 5,000 miles with the 12mm Anodized Kit and the CCV Reroute:- Oil Clarity: My oil actually stays amber for more than 50 miles. Without soot being pumped into the cylinders, the oil stays much cleaner.
- Spool-Up: Turbo lag is reduced. The exhaust pressure that was being wasted in the EGR cooler now goes directly to the turbine.
- Engine Bay: It looks 10x cleaner. Getting to the fuel filters and injectors is now a breeze.
Part 5: Common Questions & FAQ
Q: Do I need a tuner?A: Yes, 100%. If you physically remove these parts without a "weight reduction" tune, the truck will immediately go into Limp Mode and throw codes.Q: Which kit should I pick?A: If you have a standard 10mm probe and want the easiest hose routing, go with the molded hose kit. If you need the 12mm port and want a stealthier look, the Black Anodized kit is your winner.
Q: Is it legal?A: Legal Reality: Removing emissions equipment like the EGR system is a violation of the Clean Air Act in the USA. These modifications are strictly for off-road, competition, or export use only. Check your local and state regulations before proceeding.
Conclusion
The 6.7L Powerstroke is a legend in the making, but it deserves to breathe clean air. By installing an EGR delete and CCV reroute, you are essentially performing a "detox" for your engine.What's your next move? If you haven't checked your intake for soot lately, pop the intake elbow off. If it looks like a chimney, it's time to let that Scorpion breathe.
Would you like me to help you compare the tuning requirements for these different EGR delete configurations?
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