If you’re like me, the phrase “emissions system” might make you groan, thinking of power-robbing, complicated gear that’s best left alone. I used to feel the same way, especially about adding more stuff under the hood. But after a recent scare with my beloved and finicky 2018 Cummins. I was forced to confront one of the silent killers of engine health: blow-by gases and oil vapor. The solution? A seemingly simple but profoundly effective device: an Oil Catch Can Reservoir (or Breather Tank).
I installed the TruckTok Universal Aluminum Oil Catch Can (300mL version), and the process and results were so enlightening, I had to share. This isn't just another shiny billet accessory; it’s functional preventative maintenance.
The factory solution for decades has been the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. It reroutes these nasty vapors from the crankcase back into the intake manifold to be burned off. On paper, it’s a great closed-loop, eco-friendly system.
Here’s the critical flaw: That hot, oily vapor is a dirty cocktail. When it gets sucked back into your intake, three bad things happen:
Why I Chose the TruckTok 300mL Aluminum Can:
What You’ll Need:
The Good (The “Holy Smokes, It Works” Moments):
For me, on a performance-oriented, carbon-prone, or older engine, a quality catch can like this TruckTok unit is one of the most cost-effective forms of engine insurance you can buy. It tackles a genuine design compromise in modern engines head-on.
The TruckTok 300mL Aluminum Oil Catch Can gets my recommendation for its robust construction, thoughtful features (the dipstick and baffle are winners), and clear performance. It’s a mod that works quietly in the background, not for showing off at cars and coffee, but for ensuring your engine keeps running strong for many more miles and smiles.
TL;DR: If you care about long-term engine health, especially on turbo, direct-injection, or high-mileage engines, install a quality oil catch can. Be prepared to see and empty the gunk it saves your engine from. You’ll never question its value again.
Questions about installs on specific engines? Drop them below – the collective forum wisdom is the best resource!
I installed the TruckTok Universal Aluminum Oil Catch Can (300mL version), and the process and results were so enlightening, I had to share. This isn't just another shiny billet accessory; it’s functional preventative maintenance.
Part 1: The Problem - What’s Happening Inside Your Engine Without One
Before we talk about the fix, let's understand the problem. Your engine isn't a perfect seal. During combustion, a small amount of high-pressure gases, along with microscopic oil droplets and fuel vapors (collectively called "blow-by"), escape past the piston rings into the crankcase.The factory solution for decades has been the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system. It reroutes these nasty vapors from the crankcase back into the intake manifold to be burned off. On paper, it’s a great closed-loop, eco-friendly system.
Here’s the critical flaw: That hot, oily vapor is a dirty cocktail. When it gets sucked back into your intake, three bad things happen:
- Carbon Buildup (The Big One): The oil vapor condenses and mixes with carbon, slowly but surely coating your intake valves, throttle body, and intake manifold in a hard, gunk-like sludge. For direct injection engines (like most modern turbos), this is a massive problem, as fuel no longer cleans the back of the valves. Loss of power, rough idle, and expensive walnut blasting become your future.
- Reduced Octane & Detonation: Introducing un-vaporized oil into the combustion chamber can lower the effective octane of your fuel, leading to pre-ignition or knock under load. This is bad news for performance and engine longevity.
- Gunky PCV Valves: The factory PCV valve itself can get gummed up, sticking open or closed, causing idle issues, oil leaks, or even increased crankcase pressure.
Part 2: The Solution - Introducing the Oil Catch Can
Think of a catch can as a “middleman” in the PCV system. It sits inline between the crankcase breather/PCV outlet and the intake manifold. Its sole job is to cool, condense, and collect the oil vapor and contaminants, letting only cleaner gases proceed to the engine.Why I Chose the TruckTok 300mL Aluminum Can:
- Material: Aerospace-grade aluminum alloy is perfect. It's lightweight, disperses heat efficiently (helping condensation), and looks the part. No cheap plastic here.
- Capacity: 300mL is a great sweet spot for most street and moderate performance applications. Big enough to not need constant emptying, small enough to fit in tight engine bays.
- Design Features: The anodized body resists corrosion. The 3/8" & 9/16" hose adapters covered most universal hose sizes. The built-in dipstick is a genius, no-mess way to check the fluid level without disassembly. But the real gem is the removable baffle/plate. This isn't just a simple empty can; the baffle forces the vapor to change direction, maximizing condensation. You can also pack it with stainless steel or bronze filter media (like a Scotch-Brite pad) for even better filtration.
- Claimed Benefits: Better mileage (from cleaner combustion), sustained performance (cleaner valves), and preserved engine life. Sounded exactly like what I needed.
Part 3: The Install - It’s Not Just “Slapping It In”
This is the part where many go wrong. Installation is straightforward mechanically but requires planning.What You’ll Need:
- The TruckTok Catch Can kit.
- High-temperature 3/8" or matching size silicone hose (the kit comes with adapters, but you need hose).
- Hose clamps (good quality stainless ones).
- Basic hand tools: wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers.
- Mounting brackets or a strategic location. The TruckTok can is universal, so you need to figure out mounting.
- Location, Location, Location:Don't just put it anywhere. Find a spot that is:
- Lower than the PCV outlet if possible, to aid drainage.
- Away from extreme heat sources (exhaust manifolds, turbo).
- Accessible for future draining. I mounted mine on a strut tower bolt.
- Understand Your PCV Flow: This is vital. You must identify the dirty side (line coming FROM the crankcase/valve cover) and the clean side (line going TO the intake manifold). The catch can MUST be installed on the dirty side. Intercepting the clean side does nothing. Research your specific engine’s PCV routing.
- Cutting & Routing Hoses:
- Carefully cut the existing dirty side PCV hose.
- Route new hoses from the crankcase OUTLET to the INLET of the catch can.
- Route a hose from the OUTLET of the catch can to the INTAKE MANIFOLD inlet.
- Keep hoses as short and direct as possible, avoiding sharp bends. This maintains proper crankcase ventilation.
- Secure Everything: Use proper hose clamps on every connection. Vibration is the enemy. Secure the hoses with zip-ties or loom away from moving parts/belts.
- The Emptying Cycle: Start checking the dipstick after the first 100-200 miles. You’ll be shocked at how much nasty, coffee-colored fluid collects. This is the stuff that wasn’t going into your engine. Empty it before it gets more than half full.
Part 4: The Verdict - Results & Long-Term Impressions
I’ve run the TruckTok can for about 3,000 miles now. Here’s the honest breakdown:The Good (The “Holy Smokes, It Works” Moments):
- Visible Proof: Draining that first 100mL of foul, watery oil sludge was all the validation I needed. That was 100mL of intake-gunking, octane-lowering garbage taken out of the equation.
- Smoother Idle: This points to a cleaner, more stable air/fuel mixture.
- Peace of Mind: Knowing my intake tract is staying cleaner, especially my precious and expensive-to-clean rotors and housings, is invaluable. For turbo or high-compression engines, the reduced risk of knock is a huge performance safety net.
- Build Quality: The TruckTok can feels solid. The anodizing has held up to engine bay heat and the occasional fluid splash. The dipstick O-ring seal hasn’t leaked.
- It’s Maintenance: This isn’t a “fit and forget” mod. You must check and empty it regularly (part of my monthly oil-check routine now). Neglecting it defeats the purpose.
- Not a “Power” Mod: Don’t expect +10hp on the dyno. The gains are in preservation – preserving power you would have lost over time, preserving engine life, preserving fuel efficiency.
- Legal/Emission Grey Area: In some very strict emissions-testing regions, modifying the PCV system can be a technical violation. For off-road/track use, it's a no-brainer.
Final Conclusion: Is It Worth It?
Absolutely, 100% yes – if you understand what it does and are willing to perform the minor extra maintenance.For me, on a performance-oriented, carbon-prone, or older engine, a quality catch can like this TruckTok unit is one of the most cost-effective forms of engine insurance you can buy. It tackles a genuine design compromise in modern engines head-on.
The TruckTok 300mL Aluminum Oil Catch Can gets my recommendation for its robust construction, thoughtful features (the dipstick and baffle are winners), and clear performance. It’s a mod that works quietly in the background, not for showing off at cars and coffee, but for ensuring your engine keeps running strong for many more miles and smiles.
TL;DR: If you care about long-term engine health, especially on turbo, direct-injection, or high-mileage engines, install a quality oil catch can. Be prepared to see and empty the gunk it saves your engine from. You’ll never question its value again.
Questions about installs on specific engines? Drop them below – the collective forum wisdom is the best resource!
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